Matanzas History: A Brief Journey into its Captivating Past — Local in Cuba

From the footprints of its first inhabitants to the beat of its modern rhythm, this post highlights some of the most intriguing historical facts about Matanzas, many of which are largely unknown. It doesn’t cover everything – it’s a brief but enlightening journey to entice you to read more and to experience the story of this fascinating city in person.

First Inhabitants

**Landscape with River**, Esteban Chartrand, ca 1867-1870

There’s evidence of agricultural activity in the region as far back as 5500 BCE. Canímar Abajo, located under the Canímar Bridge, dates back to BCE 1380-800 and is considered Cuba’s oldest cemetery. By the 12th century CE, indigenous tribes were a productive community of potters and farmers living in villages around the bay, with a population of between 1800 and 2000.

Age of Colonization

In 1494, Columbus sailed along the southern coast of Cuba on his second voyage, and made the first recorded sighting of the the Zapata Peninsula of Matanzas. In 1508, the northern coast of the province was spotted by Sebastián de Ocampo, a Spanish navigator and explorer, during his circumnavigation of the island. In 1509, Diego Velázquez de Cuéllar was selected by Christopher Columbus to conquer the island. The slow process of colonization began, and the first African slaves were introduced.

The Legend Behind the Name

The facts around how Matanzas got its name are murky. The story most-often told involves an incident which happened in the bay, called Guanima at the time, in 1510. According to this story, 29 Spaniards who were shipwrecked near Pinar del Río plundered and pillaged their way east until they reached the bay. Needing assistance from the local indigenous tribe to get across to the other side, they were provided a canoe. Partway across, the canoe sank (it had been sabotaged by the locals) and only a handful of its occupants made it to the other side, most of whom were executed by the indigenous community living near the mouth of the Canímar River. This slaughter (the English translation for ‘Matanzas’) is said to be the origin of the city’s current name. While there is some evidence which suggests other scenarios as the reason for the name change, the version describing a massacre on the bay is the one most often shared by locals and tour guides alike.

In 1526, a map created by Juan de Vespucci is known to be the first which identifies the area as ‘Matanzas’.

Pirates and Privateers

The first foreigners to settle here established a fishing ranch at Punta de Chiquirrín in present-day Versalles, but the area remained largely undeveloped during the 16th and 17th centuries. The deep harbour and 3 main rivers provided the perfect conditions for activity by pirates and corsairs. A plan to fortify the bay was in the works but wasn’t a #1 priority for the Spanish crown at the time, leaving her vulnerable to Spain’s enemies who eyed Matanzas as an open back door to the capital city of Havana.

The Spanish Silver Fleet

On September 8, 1628, Dutch Admiral Piet Hein captured a large part of the Spanish Silver Fleet off the north coast of Cuba, including a handful of ships which were sheltering inside the Bay of Matanzas. It was a very loud signal to Spain that their dominance in the region was at risk, so they ramped up their commitment to fortify the bay and make it part of the defensive belt of Havana. The decision was made to finally start construction of the San Carlos de Manzaneda fortress (now called El Castillo de San Severino) and to populate the citadel.

Founding of the City

central courtyard at El Castillo de San Severino

On October 12, 1693, the first stone of the fort was laid by Governor Manzaneda and blessed by Bishop Compostela. It was the first of 4 forts built on the bay, it took decades to complete (construction ended in 1745) and it is the only building from that era which is still standing in the city today. Spain would go on to build 3 more forts. Batería de San Felipe del Morrillo was constructed at the mouth of the Canímar River starting in 1737 and today it is a museum. Batería San José de la Vigía stood at the entrance to Río San Juan from 1745 until it was demolished in 1862. Batería de Peñas Altas, the smallest of the forts, was located on the coast of the current neighborhood by the same name from 1920 until 1962. Only San Severino and El Morrillo remain.

First Official Citizens

In 1693, Spain brought 30 families from Canary Islands to inhabit the town and man the fort but conditions were harsh - illness and lack of supplies and preparedness caused the population to remained stagnant for some time. Development picked up in the late 1700’s with the establishment of coffee plantations, and the city would experience major growth in population in the early 1800’s when the sugar industry gained momentum.

The Sugar Boom

Between 1840-1860 Matanzas Province was the major producer of sugar on the island, comprising over 40% of Cuba’s total output. Wealthy plantation owners and merchants bought land, built mansions and settled their families on the shores surrounding the bay. This influx of wealth ignited a vibrant art scene - the city filled with writers, poets, scientists, educators, musicians and artists, and was eventually dubbed the ‘Athens of Cuba’ because of the flourishing cultural scene.

Slavery and Insurrection

shackles and chains on display at Museo de la Ruta del Esclavo

In order to support the plantation economy, Matanzas Province had a disproportionately large slave population. El Castillo de San Severino was used as an offloading point for slave ships coming from West Africa, to supply labour to the sugar mills. The mid-19th century was a tumultuous era with frequent uprisings and insurrections, the most significant of which began at the Triunvirato sugar mill in 1843. This event was a collective rebellion of slaves from multiple plantations which was ultimately unsuccessful, resulting in the 1844 ‘La Escalera Trials’ followed by imprisonments and executions. Today, there are museums at both Triunvirato and El Castillo de San Severino, where visitors can learn more about this dark point in Matanzas’ history.

War for Independence

The Cuban flag was raised for first time in Cárdenas in May of 1850, after the capture of the town by rebels in a fight against Spain. The War for Independence from Spain began in 1868 and would last another 30 years, with many battles occurring in the small towns and cities of Matanzas Province. Places such as Ibarra, Coliseo and Sabanilla all saw conflicts in Cuba’s fight for independence, and many of the leaders involved - Juan Gualberto Gomez, General Maximo Gomez, General Pedro Betancourt - now have towns named after them.

In April 1898, 2 American cruisers entered the Bay of Matanzas – US New York and the Cincinnati - and shots were fired between them and El Castillo de San Severino. The event was very brief and signified the beginning of the last stage of the War for Independence. Peace was declared in July of 1898 and Cuba was recognized as an independent nation in December of that same year.

Decline of the Sugar Industry

Between 1900 and 1920, Cuba was producing over half of the world’s sugar supply, with Matanzas Province contributing 20% of the output. However, Europe took the lead as a major supplier after the end of WW1, and the stock market crash of 1929 caused demand to decline further. Wealth dwindled, many of the sugar barons left the island, and austerity replaced opulence. The industry would later be further impacted by the collapse of the Soviet Union, and again by the US embargo. Sadly, today Cuba overall produces less than is required to meet the needs of its own population.

View of the rear of Museo Memorial el Morrillo

Assassination at El Morrillo

By 1935, having suffered under a number of corrupt dictators, a new generation of Cuban revolutionaries was emerging. Batería de San Felipe del Morrillo was the site of a historic skirmish between Batista’s soldiers and young revolutionary forces, resulting in the assassinations of two of Cuba’s most unwavering anti-imperialists -- Antonio Guiteras Holmes (1906-1935) and Carlos Aponte (1901-1935). They were conspiring to escape to Mexico and bring back a group of freedom fighters to rebel against the ongoing tyranny. Before they had a chance to leave, they were both shot on the bank of the Canímar River by Cuban soldiers. A monument stands on that spot today in homage of their revolutionary spirit, and the Batería is now open to the public as Museo Memorial el Morrillo.

Martyrs of Goicuría Barracks

Another famous rebel attack took place in April of 1956 against soldiers of the brutal Batista regime, at Goicuría Barracks (originally built as ‘Santa Cristina Barracks’ in 1830) in the Versalles neighborhood. The overall plan was to storm the barracks and take all of the weapons to arm the willing public, in order to help them in their wider revolutionary goals. The rebels were taken by counter-attack almost immediately and most of them were killed, either in action or by torture and assassination afterwards. Today, the barracks are a school named ‘Mártires de Goicuría’, in honor of those who died for the cause on that day.

divers entering the water at Playa Larga

After Castro’s Revolution

One of the most famous events in the history of Cuba happened in 1961 on the south coast of the province of Matanzas. The Bay of Pigs invasion was a failed attempt by the US, using a brigade of trained Cuban exiles, to infiltrate the island and overthrow Castro. The invading forces were outnumbered and out-gunned by Castro’s troops, and the attack failed within just a few days. Today, the site of the invasion at Playa Girón and nearby Playa Larga are admired for their crystalline waters. They’ve become popular destinations for snorkelers and divers alike and, along with the the flora and fauna of the biosphere of Zapata Peninsula, draw visitors to the area year round.

There’s so much more…

Today, Matanzas is known for being integral to the foundation of Cuban Rumba and the Danzón (Cuba’s national dance). It’s referred to as the Athens of Cuba because of its contribution to the country’s cultural scene both past and present, and as the City of Bridges for all of bridges spanning her many rivers. Matanzas is home to Cuba’s 2nd deepest harbour (after Cienfuegos), the world’s 2nd oldest active baseball stadium (Palmar de Junco) and the country’s oldest active tourist attraction (Las Cuevas de Bellamar).

This sneak peek into Matanzas' engaging history is just a starting point - there's an entire narrative waiting to be explored beyond these highlights. Dive into the deeper chapters to learn more, and consider planning your own adventure to experience it for yourself.

Resources

https://sancarlosdematanzas.blogspot.com/; Sept. 8, 2017; Joha Orihuela, Ricardo Viero

Historia Fundacional de Matanzas: Los Anos Formativos (1680-1765); Johanset Orihuela León; first edition 2021

Matanzas History: A Brief Journey into the Past

Origins of the Athens of Cuba - A Canvas of Creativity